
French contre-torpillier Jaguar 1924
First and foremast – the first French destroyer on this site. And in keeping
with our times model is a hybrid-con-fusion.
This started out as a paper model, the
Polish Kartonowa Flota (paper
fleet) 1:300 Jaguar. It was always intended as a test bed in preparation for
making the JSC HMS Exeter paper kit from
Marcle Models. I’d bought a book from
them to help me: ‘Card
modelling – basic and advanced techniques’ by Alvar Hansen of Schreiber-Bogen
Kartonmodellbau. Armed with the knowledge from that I thought I’d have a bash at
a cheap £5 job just to develop my techniques. Then I would wade into HMS
Exeter.
Of course, the advantages of origami are twofold: no painting and minimum tools.
But Alvar Hansen also advocates that modellers using different material should
unite: combining paper and card with photo-etch, plastic, wood, metal and
whatever else, scratch building to achieve the desired result.
I think that building pure world-class
paper models takes the craft of model making to the highest levels. It seems
to be elevated way beyond polystyrene and resin based work. But I found I
couldn’t cut it to that level. Apart from all the problems of folding and gluing
fiddly little bits, not painting a model (it seems to be sacrilege in the paper
model community, although I’m certain they can be weathered) can produce a
rather static and lifeless result..
So here’s my hybrid. Using any appropriate materials (even tea light canisters
and take-away aluminium food container foil) to achieve an acceptable result
depicting a well-weathered, war-torn vessel.
This model appealed to me from a roundabout route. I’d seen photos in
Profile Warships and Profile Morskie of the Abdiel class minelayer HMS Welshman
disguised as a French contre-torpillier while running supplies to Malta in 1942.
Investigating further how effective or otherwise this disguise was, I came
across those big French destroyers. And I thought the Chacal class - the first
of the type commissioned in 1923 and also the three funnelled ones - just looked
so cool. Full of Gallic style and misplaced swagger and self-confidence, as if
looks could kill... a far cry from the convoluted miscontraptions they’d been
building in the age of the dreadnought.
I’m deliberately avoiding giving a potted history of this ship and its class in
the up-top preliminaries. Most articles are written this way. My reasoning for
not doing this is twofold. First, it’s boring. Secondly, it’s duplicating
information that the world wide web is awash with. If a reader is interested in
knowing about the ship, they can just Google it.
The paper model as it comes is a bit of a weird one. I don’t know what sources
the designers used, but it’s an extraordinary mixture of accuracy and wishful
thinking. I used the
plans available online from the French maritime museum for reference -
but not until too late in the process (it was just going to be a quick
throw-together, I hadn’t intended to do deep-dive research when I started).
Unexpectedly I discovered errors within the drawings themselves. Some of the
plans, cross sections and elevations don’t correlate in detail, even within a
single sheet. And comparing them with photos, they are not in the British
Admiralty convention of ‘as fitted’.
The model actually scales out very accurately, but some of the superstructure
elements have been misinterpreted and are over complicated – in particular the
rear of the bridge, and the boiler room intakes. And then there’s the
camouflage scheme. I’ve found only one photo of the Jaguar wearing this, and on
the model the tones have been reversed – the light colours are dark and vice
versa. I don’t believe the photo was a negative, but I didn’t find it until I’d
finished painting, so it was too late to correct that.
The first point I decided I couldn’t carry on in pure paper was the ship’s boat
beams. Then it was the boiler room intakes, which I made balsa cores for. Glue
was starting to discolour and stain the paper. Rolling the torpedo tubes around
drill bits of the right diameter didn’t produce a convincing result. Ship’s
boats ended up a gungy mess of uhu glue. I didn’t like the printed on doors,
hatches and life rings, so fabricating all these meant painting these - knowing
it was impossible to match the four colour process screened printed paper (not
solid colours). So by this stage I was accepting that maintaining the printed,
paper-based character of the model was unrealistic if I was going to produce a
half-decent result.
So enter a new dilemma – was I using this any longer as a material and technique
based test-bed, or was I trying to build a model I’d be happy with? Well, both
really. I knew it would never win a medal, but I also knew that if I didn’t try
to make it the best I could, I wouldn’t develop my skills and learn things. So I
accepted I was trying to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. I learnt how to
scratch build torpedo tubes, really complicated funnel caps, ship’s boats, gun
mountings, depth charge throwers, anchors and more. All better in plastic
than paper.
I threw a whole lot of 1:350 photo etch and resin crew at it. Admittedly
slightly under scale because this is a 1:300 scale ship. But there was no
alternative – no after-market accessory and detail provider offers stuff in this
scale. And the difference in scale is really too small to notice.
Throughout I used David Griffith’s incredibly informative and wonderfully
readable book ‘Model Ships From Kits’ as my reference for things I hadn’t tried
before. This included weathering techniques and building the ocean using weird
and extraordinary materials that were completely unknown to me.
Now, I don’t make a practice of drawing attention to failed features in my
models. But the stern chutes for depth charges fell into this category. I made
them first from modified photo-etch railing (removing a lot of metal) but mashed
them up when I built up the sea around the stern. Very fragile. I replaced them
with fine brass wire bent around a wooden jig, but the angles were very complex,
the cross-ties clumsy looking, and the result less than satisfactory. So, if
David Griffiths or anyone else has got some smart ways of making these, please
let me know.
In making the sea, I decided from the outset I didn’t want it sitting lazily in
harbour. These destroyers were the greyhounds of the seas, so I was determined
to try a portray an impression of high speed manoeuvrability – sharp turn to
starboard with the vessel healing into the curve. I hope I’ve succeeded. A bit
ambitious I suppose for the first time I’ve ever made an ocean.
The flag hoist reads ‘OMG I’m turning to starboard’. I chose OMG as in ‘Oh My
God’ in text speak. In the international flag code it also means ‘surf’. So –
‘Oh my god! Surf! I’m turning to starboard!’ LOL.
I’ve included a set of pictures taken from the same angle of one particular
section of the ship to illustrate the stages I went through sorting things out.
Yes, some of the first stuff I did I stripped off later having done my research
rather more diligently. They’re also intended as a terrible warning to wannabe
paper makers.
My build is easily criticised. The liferails look a bit wonky. And I had a big
problem with the hull sides shrinking between the athwartships formers. Next
time (if there is one) I’ll put in more intermediate formers and also stiffen
the hull sides with an extra layer of paper.
The Caenis thread used for the rigging can exert incredible tension, and my top
foremast – even though stoutly constructed from brass rod and wire – acquired a
backward stagger thanks to seven wireless aerials. The mainmast was OK though.
So, the outcome of this ‘quick’ effort at paper modelling in preparation for the
real deal – HMS Exeter? No way. These paper model sheets are brilliant in
conception and process, but practically impossible to make ‘out of the book’ to
an acceptable standard. Well, for me anyway. On the other hand, they are totally
brilliant as templates for scratch building.
And I have to say, the end result to my eyes is pretty cool – capturing in a
French impressionistic way the real character of this ship. You can criticise
some of the defects, but the overall effect - well, that’s for you to
decide.
But perhaps I shall just enjoy some opportunities to get some interesting
results from the Frog (1:400) and Matchbox (1:700) injection moulded kits of the
Exeter. They’re both in my stash and together cost me the price of fine dining
for me and my wife in a top London restaurant. The trouble is, I’ve bought the
ingredients but haven’t yet enjoyed the dishes. I guess the only way to achieve
satisfaction and get something out of what I paid for will be by being a
Ship Chef.
Welcome to my hybrid-fusion, made of all sorts.
PS: A HUGE word of caution. ‘Zip Kicker’ accelerator for CA glue is very, very
nasty stuff. After some very unpleasant experiences, my practice has been to
throw open the window and exit the room immediately after using it. Before that,
I remained head over the model, carrying on with gluing and ‘kicking’. The
result on a few occasions was that within an hour or so I experienced
frighteningly large blind spots in one or other of my eyes. I could see, but not
as we know it Jim. Nasty stuff. Really nasty chemicals in it. The effects on the
brain and sight disappear fairly quickly, but the experience is very unpleasant.