Making waves - my way

By Frank Spahr

A hopefully short introduction
 
Upon re-entering ship modeling, I soon started attempts at making sea bases for my ships. I started with clear silicone caulking, but soon wasn´t satisfied with both the material and the effect I was able to create. The surface wasn´t quite glossy from the outset and tended to become flatter over time, to mention just one thing. (1)

The next method I tried was casting plaster against wrinkled aluminum foil, which had its merits, but didn´t convince me in the long run. I noted that the surface looked credible because it had a slightly irregular texture that reflected the light virtually like water - provided it had a truly high gloss. I now at least knew that these two things were needed for a sea base that looked right. (2)

I always admired Jim Baumann´s work, not only the ships but also his stunningly realistic saescapes, but I proved utterly hopeless when it came to trying Jim´s method of watercolor paper, so I had to plod on on my own. Using structured glass painted from the underside didn´t turn out to be a major winner, too. (3)

But more or less by chance I learned that ordinary wall paint can be applied to a useful surface structure by using a large brush. (4) That led to more experimenting, and in due course to the method I currently use and will describe below.

What I do today
I mostly use Trumpeter display boxes these days, to me they are a good compromise in terms of value for money, despite their shortcomings. Larger projects have so far been put into picture frames, with the early bases made from ordinary coarse-grained styrofoam, until I switched to fine-grained insulation foam board. Both situations require slightly different approaches.

Using the display box

I have a small adjustable vise to hold and handle my models during construction. Therefore, each model has two screws fixed to the bottom of the hull; these screws are also used to mount the model in the display box. (5)

I prepare my seascapes very early in construction, before anything fiddly has been done to the hull. The hull is screwed to the base, the surrounds of the box are masked, and then a light mist of paint is sprayed to mark the perimeter of the hull.

I then sculpt any structures standing proud of the base, using a putty of my choice. Hardware supermarkets often have styrene putty in larger and more affordable tubes than hobby suppliers. Some sorts of instant wall spackle may be helpful, too - but in each case tests are needed to prove if they are really suitable. I once bought very cheap spatulas for artists´oil paints, and they proved most helpful for sculpting. Disturbed water may be simulated using wire brushes and other suitable instruments. Careful study of reference images is crucial in achieving a credible and realistic result. (8-11)

This method may be corrected quite easily, both by carving, cutting, sanding or by adding material.

Modeling a ship at anchor in a calm sea may only need wall paint and no sculpting at all. (15) The actual amount of paint used and the stippling will determine the surface structure - some tests will obviously be needed, but the technique is pretty easy to learn. It also stands repeating if the layer or the structure wasn´t pronounced enough. The only thing you should avoid is using excess material in one application, as it will develop cracks.

 The disturbed water around and astern the ship will be lighter and more greenish in hue. In this respect I can again but recommend studying as many reference images as possible.

The next step is to apply a really good gloss coat to the base. I use solvent-based clear gloss lacquer in rattle cans from the hardware supermarket. Some coats are applied until the sheen looks right. (19-24)

Using the foam board

The foam board obviously is more versatile, as the material may be cut, sawed, sanded, grinded to any shape desired. Puttying will work, too. If you gently spray brush cleaner to selected areas of the base, it´ll dissolve the surface of the board and create a structure pretty similar to a frothy wake. Obviously, this should be practised in advance and only be done in a well-ventilated workspace. (25)

A full hull may be embedded into the board, easing the simulation of more lively seas. Again, I try to keep the model removable, so I can easily complete both the base and the ship.

Again, the wall paint will work as a filler and structural material, and stippling with a large brush will leave the desired slightly irregular surface that after applying acrylic paint and a good gloss will resemble water quite strikingly. Even though there is no actual depth to it, the effect is quite convincing. (26-29)

Summary

- A glossy and slightly irregular surface will resemble water in our preferred scales quite well.
- Wall paint applied in a stippling motion will provide the texture in a very easy manner
- Apart from painting wet in wet, an airbrush will also provide nice blends of hues. Acrylic modeling paints work quite well.
- A good gloss lacquer from the can will create a convincing and rather rugged surface.
- All materials should be allowed to fully cure for good results